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“It helped move the scales from my eyes,” Mori recalled years later, according to a 1990 profile in the Washington Post, adding: “The whole Japanese concept of beauty is based on concealment…I suddenly realized that I should change my approach and make my dresses help a woman stand out.” She did just that, often blending Western silhouettes with Asian-style motifs, like the butterflies that would later see her dubbed “Madame Butterfly.” Mori staged her first overseas show, themed “East Meets West,” in New York in 1965

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Sometimes models on her runways looked like avatars of the designer, with their long, straight blonde hair

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